Stuff needed:
Spark plugs ( I recommend NGK Platinum for Hondas)
Distributor cap
Rotor
Spark plug wires (I prefer NGK)
Anti-seize lubricant (for hi temps)
Dielectric grease
Tools:
5/8 inch Spark plug socket with rubber insert. I recommend using one that locks onto your ratchet wrench extension.
Ratchet wrench
Ratchet wrench extension
Various metric sockets.
Flat head screwdriver
Phillips head screw driver
It’s best to do this when you engine is cool. Open the hood of the car. Make sure you have lots of light. Pull up the plug wire from the plug on the far right. Let it hang. Using a ratchet wrench with an extension and a spark plug socket, stick it down into the hole and onto the plug. Unscrew the plug, and pull it out. Check out the electrode of the old plug. The new plugs should already be gapped properly, but you may want to check the gap anyway. Be careful when doing this as not to damage the spark plug. Put a little bit of anti seize lubricant onto the threads of the spark plug. Insert a new plug into the socket, and carefully extend it down into the hole. Using the plug socket on the extension, screw the plug in by hand. When it won’t turn anymore, use the ratchet wrench. It will often turn a little bit more before you feel real resistance. Turn the plug quarter of a turn. Reconnect the spark plug wire boot. Do the next three spark plugs the same way.
Now you want to remove the distributor cap. On mine, there are three small screws holding it in place. I usually use a small ratchet wrench with a long socket, or use a flex extension, or a combination of the two. Remove the three screws, being careful not to lose them. Lift off the distributor cap, leaving the wires attached. Now you want to remove the rotor which was located under the distributor cap. There may or may not be a small screw holding the rotor in place. If there is a screw, remove it. If there is a screw, but you can’t reach it, you may new to turn the engine over as if to start it. It won’t start though, but it will turn the rotor. Pop the old rotor off. Snap the new rotor on. It will only go on one way. Make sure it is fully seated. Replace the screw if there was one.
Now you are ready to install the new cap. Check the box for a new O-ring. Install the new O-ring and place the new cap onto the distributor. Install the screws. You may have gotten new screws with the new cap. If so, use these. If not, just use the old screws.
Now you are ready to replace the spark plug wires. It is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT that the new wires are connected in same way as the old ones. So I like to replace the wires one at a time. If in doubt, take a picture of how the wires are connected to the distributor cap beforehand, to use as a reference later. You can also mark the wires with masking tape and a pen as to which goes where. Start with wire for the spark plug on the far right. Remove the wire from both the plug and the old distributor cap. Pull out the new wires, and find the longest wire. Place a small dab of dielectric grease on the tip of a flat tip screwdriver, and smear this around the insides of the boots on both ends of the wire. Push the plug end of the wire onto the spark until it snaps into place. Now plug the other end of the wire onto the new distributor cap in the same location it was connected to on the old cap. Again, it should snap into place. Place the wire into the guides where the original wire ran. Proceed to the next wire and repeat the same process.
Remove all tools from the engine area. Start your car. Hopefully it starts and runs well. If it doesn’t run smoothly, shut it off, and double check your spark plug wire connections at both ends, to make sure they are connected securely. If the car still doesn’t run well, double check to make sure you connected the wires to correct locations on the distributor.